Scads of Skirts

One pattern plus three techniques equals a wardrobe of options

Created by Michele Mishler, Junction City, OR, USA

Janome machines are so versatile; your creativity can take off in any number of directions. We asked Michele Mishler to come up with a trio of skirts, each featuring a different technique and a unique look. The first skirt uses a repetitive patter of decorative stitches to form contrasting panels. The second skirt features embroidered godets to add beauty and bounce. And the third skirt has rows of ruffles that soften the denim fabric. For extra fun, Michele also created a matching purse for each skirt.

Lovely Lines of Decorative Stitching

Janome Supplies Required

• Memory Craft 6500 Professional or 4900QC
• Standard Foot A
• Zipper foot E
• Satin Stitch foot F
• Custom Crafted foot F2 (optional)
  
  

Fabric and Notions Required

• New look #6248 (View A)
• Beige cotton twill fabric (yardage according to pattern)
• Notions according to pattern
• 30 wt. decorative thread
• Water-soluble stabilizer
• All-purpose thread
• Air soluble marking pen
• Cutting mat (optional)
• Ruler
  
  

Instructions

1. Trim the pattern pieces for View A.
2. Cut pattern pieces from the cotton twill fabric according to the pattern instructions.
   Note: There will be four Skirt Middle Front and Skirt Back pieces (Pattern piece #2). These are the panels embellished with decorative stitches.
3. Cut a piece of stabilizer for each panel, using the pattern for size.
4. Place each panel right side up over the stabilizer. Pin in place.
5. Using the air soluble marking pen, mark a 45 degree diagonal line of each panel, starting at the lower right hand corner of the panel.
6. With the ruler and marking pen, mark additional diagonal lines, spaced 1" apart, until the entire skirt panel is covered.
   Inside Information
   For an easy way to mark the lines, place the skirt panel on a cutting mat, aligning the first diagonal line with the grid lines of the cutting mat. Position the ruler along the gridlines and mark additional lines, using the gridlines for spacing.
7. Thread the needle with decorative thread and the bobbin with all-purpose thread.
8. Attach the Satin Stitch foot F or Custom Crafted foot F2.
9. Select a Triple Straight stitch. (Michele used Stitch #20 in Mode 2 on the MC6500P).
10. Stitch along each of the marked lines on all four skirt panels, removing pins as necessary.
11. Sew a row of decorative stitches centered between the Triple Straight stitches. You can use the same stitches as indicated below or select for or five of your favorite stitches. The stitches from the MC6500P used on the sample garment are as follows:
    
    • Stitch #50 in Mode 2
    • Stitch #52 in Mode 2
    • Stitch #37 in Mode 3
    • Stitch #39 in Mode 3
      Hint: Use each stitch randomly over the skirt panel, until the entire panel is covered with decorative stitches.
12. Repeat for each panel.
13. When the decorative stitching is complete, remove excess stabilizer and press the panels from the wrong side.
14. Complete the skirt according to the pattern instructions, using the decorative thread and Triple Straight stitch for the topstitching.

Embroidery Adds Flair to Flares

Janome Supplies Required

• Memory Craft 10001, 10000, 9500
• Customizer 10000 Plus
• Digitizer 10000 (Optional)
• USB, RS232C or ATA PC Card
• Clothsetter 10000
• Stitchitize Embroidery Design
• FL039 (from the Stitchitize 4000 Collection, also available from www.stitchitize.com)
• Large Hoop B
• Embroidery foot P
• Standard foot A
• Zipper foot E
• Janome Embroidery thread
• Janome Bobbin thread
• Blue Tip needle 75/11

Fabric and Notions Required

• New Look #6248 (View C)
• Lilac rayon pant weight fabric (yardage according to pattern)
• Notions according to pattern
• Stabilizer
• All-purpose thread
• Temporary spray adhesive
• Air soluble marking pen

Instructions

1. Trim the pattern pieces for View C.
2. Cut pattern pieces from the rayon fabric according to the pattern instructions.
   Note: There will be eight godets (Pattern piece #6). There are embellished with embroidery.
3. Using the air soluble marking pen, mark a crosshair on each godet, 4" from the lower edge and centred.
4. Set up the Memory Craft for Professional-Style Embroidery.
5. Transfer the embroidery design to the machin using Customizer 10000 Plus via USB, RS232C or ATA PC Card.
   Hint: Michele used Digitizer 10000 to add additional flower sprays to fill in the top of the embroidery design. Or, you can use an embroidery design of your choice.
6. Place the stabilizer in the Large Hoop B.
7. Spray stabilizer with temporary spray adhesive.
8. Place the godet in the hoop using the Clothsetter for perfect placement. Finger press fabric in place.
9. Place the hoop on the machine. Embroider the design.
10. Remove the hoop from the machine and remove the fabric from the hoop.
11. Remove excess stabilizer and press the godet from the wrong side.
12. 12. Repeat Steps 6-11 for each godet.
13. Set up the Memory Craft for Ordinary sewing.
14. Complete the skirt according to the pattern instructions.

Easy Ruffles With Sewing & Serging

Janome Supplies Required

• Any Janome Sewing Machine
• Any Janome serger
• Standard foot A
• Zipper foot E
• Ruffler foot (optional)
• Janome Overlock thread J360
• Janome Woolly Nylon thread (optional)
• Blue Tip needle 75/11

Fabric and Notions Required

• New Look #6248 (View E)
• Teal denim fabric (yardage according to pattern)
• Notions according to pattern
• Decorative thread (optional)
• All-purpose thread
• Seam sealant
• Large-eyed tapestry needle

Instructions

1. Trim the pattern pieces for View E.
2. Cut pattern pieces from the denim fabric according to the pattern instructions.
3. Set up the serger for a 3-thread Rolled Hem stitch.
   Inside Information
   Make a number of samples using different decorative threads or the Janome Woolly Nylon in the upper looper. Adjust the stitch length and tensionuntil you find the perfect look for your fabric. Some Janome sergers also make a 2-thread Rolled Hem stitch, perfect for lightweight fabrics. Since denim is a fabric with a lot of body, the standard 3-thread Rolled Hem stitch is a better chocice.
4. Serge the long edge of each ruffle, trimming away 1/4" as you serge.
   Note: There are eight ruffles (Pattern piece #7).
5. Serge each end with a rolled hem. leaving a 3" tail.
6. Using the tapestry needle, thread the tail through the eye of the needle, and work the tail into the Rolled Hem to secure.
7. Use a small amount of seam sealant to secure the end and allow to dry.
8. Trim any excess thread ends.
9. Set up the serger for a balanced 4-thread Overlock stitch.
   Hint: the Ruffler foot may be used to gather the ruffles for the skirt. Experiment on scraps of denim to find the correct setting for the correct amount of gathers.
10. Set up the sewing machine for Ordinary sewing.
11. Attach the Standard foot A.
12. Follow the pattern instructions to complete the skirt, finishing each seam with the serger.

Michele's Notes:

1. The serger is the perfect machine for this skirt because it flattens and controls the otherwise bulky seams. As you serge each seam, trim away just the tiniest amount. Press to one side and topstitchin place. Use the serger to finish the edge of the facing and the hem.
2. The A-line skirt has a curved hem. Use the differential feed adjustment to slightly gather the hem. When presed into place., the hem will lay flat with no puckers.
3. For the matching purse, use the same technique to finish the ruffle, and complete the purse according to the pattern instructions.